The Roskopf / R. Lapanouse story Caveman001  August 10, 2012 02:45PM

Admin Registered: July 2012 Posts: 9,826

It's no secret that I tend to gravitate towards ultra-inexpensive wristwatches. Nor that, to a certain degree, for me the movement is the watch. Mind you, I do prefer that my movements be housed in a wearable watch. IOW I don't collect bare movements. Not yet, anyway. So, as you might imagine, I've long since combined these two areas of interest, and am a fan of affordable movements. Sure, I enjoy an intricately-finished high end movement as much as anyone. But being a Poor Man, I know that I will never own many. So, while I do enjoy reading and learning about them, my interest is purely academic, and takes a back seat to more modest movements which I can easily afford.

Like many WIS with a PMW bent, my first exposure to the genre was . And while I am still most definitely a fan of Timex, the marque, and of their vintage watches, such is their popularity that I deem them outside the scope of this essay. No, here we will deal with more obscure subject material of Swiss origin.

Now, I was several years down the path of WISdom before I realized that there was an ultra-inexpensive side to Swiss watchmaking, of an order roughly equivalent to my beloved Timex. The watch that really opened my eyes to this fact was this one:

Click HERE for larger photo

This watch was a gift from Bro. Jeremy Dean, and came to me with the sub-dial and sweep seconds hands dislodged, bouncing around in the dial bay. This is, no doubt, why Jeremy was able to acquire the watch in a thrift shop for the princely sum of $5.99. I have since reset the sub-dial hands, but managed to booger up the sweep seconds hand beyond repair. I have thus far been unable to source a replacement so, while the watch runs A-OK, I seldom wear it.

But the movement is, for me, the real attraction here..

Click HERE for larger photo or HERE for supersized photo

It's an Ebauches Bettlach caliber 8420, a 1-jewel pin-pallet design. The bread-and-butter of Ebauches Bettlach were fully-jeweled movements which, while of a modest nature, were much more in the traditional Swiss vein. The pin-pallet movements seem to have been a sideline for them, though no doubt a lucrative one. An amazing movement, in its own way. So much so that I couldn't resist a bit of research, and that led me to the real subject of this missive, the Roskopf movement.

Georges F. Roskopf was, arguably, more responsible than any other watchmaker for making watches affordable to The Common Man. As such, on a forum dedicated to poor man's watches, he should be a Household Name. More so than a Breguet or a LeCoultre, one would think. But no, if you search our forum for "Roskopf", you will get precious few hits. I hope my writing here will go some small way towards remedying this situation.

I am no historian, of course (I just play one on a watch forum , so I'll cheat a bit and nick the bio from Jimmy Wales...

Quote
Wikipedia

Georges F. Roskopf (1813-1889), the inventor of the pin-pallet escapement, was born in Germany and became a naturalized Swiss citizen.

Early life and introduction
In 1829, when Roskopf was 16, he went to La Chaux-de-Fonds and began training in commerce with F. Mairet & Sandoz, who dealt in ironmongery and watch parts. In 1833 he decided to become a watchmaker and went as an apprentice to J. Biber, in La Chaux-de-Fonds, to learn watchmaking.

Career as a watch maker and specialist
Financed by his wife, he then set up in business as an établisseur, that is, a watch producer who bought the ebauche and all other parts of the watch and assembled them. He made cylinder and lever watches for export to North America and Belgium. Although the watches were well made, the business was not profitable and in 1850 Roskopf sold it. In 1851 Roskopf became the joint manager of the La Chaux-de-Fonds branch of B. J. Guttman Frères of Wurzburg. They manufactured English-type watches. In 1855 he set up in business with his son, Fritz Edouard, and Henri Gindraux as "ROSKOPF, GINDRAUX & CO." After two years his son opened his own business in Geneva and Gindraux went to Neuchâtel to become the Director of the Watchmaking School.

Roskopf was an idealist who dreamed of making a good quality, cheap watch for working men. To accomplish this he used an old idea and reworked it, that of having the hands driven directly by the mainspring. In 1860 he began to design such a watch, which could be sold for 20 francs, and would still be of excellent quality, simple and solid. The watch had a large barrel in the center. a "Perron" pin-pallet escapement, and a monometallic balance. After discussions with Moritz J. Grossman he adopted the simple detached pin lever escapement.

Listing of the features for the new caliber:

1. Escapement on a platform normally using a pin lever design but possible with a lever or cylinder escapement;
2. No center wheel but a large barrel;
3. Motion work to hands direct from the barrel arbour;
4. Philippe free spring with no stop work;
5. Button wind but with handset by finger pressure.

Parts refusal and patents
Roskopf met indifference and hostility among the watchmakers of the area who were still working as a home industry and who did not wish to make a watch such as he was offering. It is said, that in 1866 Roskopf ordered two boxes of ebauches from Emile Roulet and asked Gustave Rosselet to make escapements; both refused to take his orders because of the novelty of the work. He finally succeeded in producing a watch in 1867, using ebauches and cases from the Malleray Watch Co., and parts from many other makers, and having them assembled in Damprichard, Doubs, France, by M. Chatelain. The original order to Malleray Watch Co., was 2000 pieces. By the end of 1867 he was in business and by 1870 he had ordered 20,000 ebauches.

Roskopf was granted US patent No. 75,463 10 Mar. 1868, for a changeable escapement for watches (this patent said that the escapement could be adapted for use with a cylinder or lever as well as a pin pallet). Roskopf patented his watch in France with French patent No. 80611 of 25 Mar. 1868 for a watch with a type of platform escapement. He patented his designs in several countries (Belgium, No. 21988, 3 Aug. 1867) but never in Switzerland, because Switzerland did not yet have a patenting system, and because the idea had been used there before his use of it.

Exhibitions and presentations
Through the influence of the House of Breguet in Paris, Roskopf was able to present his watch at the Universal Exhibition in Paris in 1868 and won a Bronze Medal. From then on Breguet began to send him orders. Some movements were supplied to Borel & Courvoisier. Other orders poured in. The Roskopf watch was exhibited at the Amsterdam Exhibition in 1869 and won a Silver Medal. In 1870 Georges Roskopf introduced a second design with a setting mechanism; this watch cost 25 francs. In it he reduced the number of parts, simplified the escapement fitting, and introduced an improved winding. The escapement was assembled on its own adjustable platform. The watch was SW and pin-set. In his oversize barrel he arranged to use Adrien Philippe's (Patek,Philippe) patent free mainspring without stop works for which he paid a royalty on each watch.

Later career and death
In 1873 Roskopf handed over his business to Wille Frères and their associates, Ch. Léon Schmid.

When Roskopf died in 1889 a number of firms claimed to be his true successors. But Wille Frères actually owned the rights on the company. Actually, Wille Frères and Vve Ch. L. Schmid had been using Roskopf trade mark for years before G. F. Roskopf's death, with his permission.

By this time the idea of the Roskopf-type watch was becoming popular in Switzerland and a number of Swiss companies began making "Roskopf" watches. In order to be really cheap, the watches had to be machine mass manufactured as much as possible. These watches had pin-pallet escapements rather than platform escapements.

Couldn't have said it better meself! But let's have some Roskopf Watch photos! Mind you, most watches that bear the actual Roskopf Patents are pocket watches...




Ironically enough, considering their original market as an inexpensive watch for The Common Man, Roskopf watches command surprisingly high prices today. It's rare to see them go for under US $150 if they're in running condition. And cosmetically fine examples sometimes top $1K! While Roskopf might not be a Household Name on the average watch forum, obviously 'tis a different story with a certain class of Hardcore Collector.

But it's the movements you want to see, I know...






While Roskopf-branded wristwatches are much more rare, they do exist:


Mind you, for every watch which says "Roskopf" on the dial, there's a hundred that say so on the movement alone. And probably thousands which use some aspect of the Roskopf design uncredited. Many manufacturers tweaked the design just enough to remove the legal requirement to license the patent. Indeed, I suspect the Ebauches Bettlach 8420 with which I led off is a case in point. Perhaps the easiest and most sure-fire way to obtain a Roskopf movement in a wristwatch is to seek out one of the Cuervo y Sobrinos "character watches" which are quite common on eFlay. With very few exceptions, you will find a sure 'nough Roskopf movement inside.

And that brings us to R. Lapanouse. Unlike Ebauches Bettlach, R. Lapanouse S.A. (aka Cimier, aka REGO) was very much a specialist in 1-jewel pin-pallet movements. Forget bread-and-butter, it was their meat-and-potatos! IMHO, they can be thought of as "The Swiss Timex" more so than any other company.

Here I'll nick the history from swisstime.ch, though I believe the original source was a press release from Cimier themselves.

Quote
www.swisstime.ch

CIMIER - from 1924 to today

In 1925, the first ads from a company Lapanouse SA appeared, featuring Swiss watches under the brand name CIMIER.

The company had been founded the year before by the watchmaker R. Lapanouse in Hölstein, a small and structurally weak town in the canton Baselland. The comfortably manageable family enterprise had been producing the so-called “Roskopf” watches since its relocation to the neighbouring Bubendorf. This type of watch originates from the watchmaker Georg Friedrich Roskopf, who lived 1813 – 1889. He developed very robust and exceptionally reasonably priced clockworks, featuring vertically standing steel pins instead of the usual stone palettes for the time scaling. Further characteristics were the economic pillar construction, a light balance wheel, the relatively thick balance shaft as protection against breakage, and comparatively few jewels.

A whole new range of customers was addressed with the production of these affordable watches, and Lapanouse SA rushed from success to success. There was, however, a sour note in the history of the rapidly upcoming company: The Achilles’ heel of its extraordinarily purposeful strategy came to light in 1934, when production was frozen at the respective status quo by Swiss Federal Law. Historical documents prove that this measure was taken to protect the crisis-ridden watch industry. Accordingly, Lapanouse was restricted to producing exclusively Roskopf clockworks and watches containing these.

Creativity was not impaired, however! The ambitious enterprise now focused on an even broader and more attractive collection for ordinary people, consisting mainly of wristwatches.

In 1951, as the branch was gradually recovering from the aftermath of the Second World War, Lapanouse SA managed to stand out with exceptionally good results. A new range of wrist watches was presented, with gold plated or chromed casings, still featuring the successful pin lever movement from the company's own production. The CIMIER brand, now also reflected in the new company name LAPANOUSE-CIMIER, set out to capture the world. In English, CIMIER means "Crest" (as in the decoration on a helmet), and this melodious name was to be understood as a symbol for the combination of elegance and stability.

The age of the beginning economic boom demanded more striking and distinctive wrist watches, and CIMIER launched pieces with luminescent numerals, centre second, as well as a novel chronograph. The company’s pioneer role in this field was to pay off: The striking timepieces were sold very successfully worldwide, and even the company’s stationery proudly announced: "Production of 5000 watches daily". An incredible 1,5 million watches were produced yearly by the 500 employees in Bubendorf.

The key markets at that time were the USA and Europe, as well as South America, Australia, and South Africa.

In 1966, the obstructive 1934 Federal Law paragraph was finally abolished, but Lapanouse saw no reason to leave the reliable pin lever terrain. The range was to be extended, instead of cut back or even given up. The result was a pin lever chronograph with seven stones and two pushers for controlling diverse functions, as well as several additional dials. The simultaneous arrangement of tachy and telemeter scale completed its impressive appearance.

In the seventies, pulsating quartz crystals were introduced to the watch industry. Lapanouse SA applied itself to this new technology and once again adopted a pioneer role in developing its own quartz movement.

In a risky transaction, a large part of the production machines was sold to a competitor at the beginning of the 80s, who was henceforth to be a supplier of the company. This outsourcing measure, however, did not result in the expected reduction of production costs. On the contrary; due to the now costly purchase of movements, Lapanouse-Cimier clearly suffered a competitive disadvantage when it came to competitors from abroad, and particularly when it came to the important new domestic player.

Discord within the owner family concerning the future strategy and the choice of a successor to head the enterprise finally lead to the provisional production shut-down in one of the largest Swiss watch manufactures in 1985.

CIMIER today

Since 2003, the long-standing tradition of the brand is being carried toward the future by managing director Martin Bärtsch and his team. The most prominent characteristics of a CIMIER are still high-class workmanship, the remarkable design and an affordable price. The CIMIER atelier in Baar (Central Switzerland) not only designs and develops these exclusive timepieces, but also manufactures them in finest handcraft.

CIMIER Philosophy

Three elegant feathers decorate the CIMIER logo, symbolizing a crest - in French: CIMIER. The brand name is no coincidence - we want you to wear your CIMIER with pride and elegance. CIMIER watches are designed, developed and produced in the company‘s atelier in the heart of Switzerland in Baar, canton of Zug.

Apart from its popular quartz watches, CIMIER offers a wide range of mechanical models. Whatever their mechanism, CIMIER watches convince with their attractive price-performance ratio and their sportive elegant style.

Managing director Martin Bärtsch and his team have been carrying the long-standing tradition of the brand toward the future since 2003.

Today CIMIER distributes its watches in 17 countries. In October 2009 the first flagship store opened its doors at the Limmatquai in Zurich.

Photos? Sure! We've got plenty of photos!




R. Lapanouse products are like Lay's Potato Chips, apparently. "You can't collect just one.."

While the "purest" examples could be considered..






..the models by Cimier and REGO, the R. Lapanouse movements were used by many, many other manufacturers.




















It's important to note that, looked at one way, these aren't chronographs at all, at least not in the conventional sense.

Quote
ChronoMATT @ watchlords

Calling this movement a chronograph is generous. Technically, it is, but its limited features has it referred to as a "lap timer" by some.

The chronograph's upper sub dial registers 45 minute increments while the lower totalizes 6 hours. As shown in the above image, one must manually advance the time to 12 o'clock sharp and allow the seconds hand to reach 12, too. Pressing the top chrono pusher will stop the seconds hand.

One the bottom pusher is deployed, the time advanced until the top pusher is pressed. The above shows 45 minutes having passed. The top chrono hand made on full revolution for it measures 45 minutes only. The bottom register stopped at the 45 minute sub dial indicator, one tick mark before the 1 hour spot. To regain the current time, one has to refer to another timepiece and re-adjust using the tradition push-pull crown.

And, yes, even some companies which are thought of as quite "high end" have used R. Lapanouse movements. Oris, for instance...






But let's have some more movement photos!




ANYway.. guess I've run on enough. Thank you, Dear Constant Reader , for sticking with me through this long and rambling post.

Sláinte!

-Ricky

The Roskopf / R. Lapanouse story	Caveman001	1762	August 10, 2012 02:45PM
I am halfway through the article and I love this post. I have a pin pallet movt watch I reckon Post WW2 era... I was also investigating this topic of pin pallet and got to the Roskopf story and the fact that Timex "built their fortune" on pin pallet technology. This was a couple of weeks ago and started due to feedback from a kind knowledgable man on WUS which noticed the movement is pin pallet. Here is the watch after service and crystal change (I didn't like the crystal which visually steals a mm from the radius, so watchmaker is changing it again to a flatter dome). Below the pics is a link to the thread on WUS: Here's the thread on WUS.	jackrobinson	76	August 10, 2012 03:26PM
mate. You might also enjoy.. ..my of this One-jewel Wonder: Click HERE for larger photo or HERE for Quote jackrobinson Here is the watch after service and crystal change (I didn't like the crystal which visually steals a mm from the radius, so watchmaker is changing it again to a flatter dome). Kudos to ye for "rescuing" that one. Many WIS, alas, consider a 1-jewel movement beneath their dignity. The s.	Caveman001	80	August 10, 2012 03:44PM
nice reviews. clarification: my mentor despite being pin pallet is a 15j watch, probably a few of them uselessly placed. (n/t)	jackrobinson	124	August 10, 2012 08:20PM
Right. I did notice.. ..but have come to think of these watches as "One-Jewel Wonders" so strongly that it's become a sort of Figure Of Speech for me. Quote jackrobinson ..my mentor despite being pin pallet is a 15j watch, probably a few of them uselessly placed. Kudos to ye for being astute enough to realize that, despite the higher jewel count, 'tis still a brother to the Roskopf.	Caveman001	54	August 11, 2012 03:33AM
(n/t)	jackrobinson	92	August 11, 2012 04:19AM
Same as Bro Jack, I'm only about half way through, but thoroughly enjoying it. I'll definitely finish it tomorrow.  (n/t)	DJM	61	August 10, 2012 11:35PM